2002 Saint-Véran Chardonnay, Georges Duboeuf

$10

Goes well with charcuterie

King of Country Pate

If you're looking for a good, well-priced house white this spring--and if you like the style of white wines from southern Burgundy--try this bottling from the pope of Beaujolais. Its flavors are appley-simple, but it stands out from others because it's a little crisper and drier than many similar wines in the U.S. market. I loved it with charcuterie, including a great country pâté and jambon persillé, the Burgundian dish of ham in aspic.

2000 Las Renas Tinto Monastrell

$6

Goes well with picnic foods, grilled meats

Waldorf Salad with Roast Beef Sandwich

Outstanding red-wine value from Spain, made from Mourvédre grapes. Young, exuberant, Beaujolais-like nose, but with a twist of black pepper--similar to a juicy Côtes-du-Rhône. Fruity, vinous, with just a lick of tannin. Superb with a mustardy roast beef sandwich.

1998 Corte Della Meridiana, Valtellina Superiore, Conti Sertoli Salis

$28

Goes well with: stews, roasted meats

Osso Buco with Toasted Pine Nut Gremolata

Truly distinctive wine from northern Italy, made right near Switzerland from Nebbiolo grapes. Lightish brick-garnet look. Lovely, subtle, complex nose, now featuring cherries, shifting to dried fruit, sliding back and forth between vanilla and chocolate. Nutty and earthy tones appear on the impeccably dry, elegant palate--which leaves its mark in a long, surprisingly forceful finish. Delicious now with Osso Buco.