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By Ann Volkwein
Dining in Senegalese restaurants can be lavish or simple. When in Senegal, expect a much wider variety of restaurants in the cities than in the countryside.
In Senegal's cities, the "French format" is used in most restaurants--an echo of the French colonization that ended in 1960. The meal will include an appetizer, main course, and dessert, and Senegal has service compris (tip included in the bill). The menu also will be in French. The more upscale establishments have a wide variety of dishes to choose from. Less formal dining options include open-air restaurants where food is cooked on small grills. In the country, rest houses serve delicious, simpler versions of classic Senegalese dishes.
French is Senegal's official language, but the Wolof people are Senegal's ethnic majority and the Wolof language is spoken in most of the country. Most traditional dishes are called by the Wolof name, existing on menus with a variety of spellings--sound them out if they don't look familiar and you may realize that you know the dish.
Although Senegal's population is predominantly Muslim, alcohol is available in bars in hotels and clubs--but be sensitive to the beliefs of the people. Before planning a trip to Senegal, check out the Islamic calendar of holidays. Note in particular the timing of the holy month of Ramadan when Muslims fast during the daytime and feast at night. During Ramadan, many restaurants may be closed by day, and restrictions on smoking and drinking may be tighter.
Harris' word of advice on dining in a Senegalese restaurant is to "be adventurous...and do what you would do in another restaurant where you don't know the food. Look around, see somebody with a plateful of something you like, point, and say, 'I'll have that.' Remember the phrase for thank you--djere djef."
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